Leeks in Vinaigrette

For the vinaigrette: Combine the vinegar, garlic, mustard, salt, and pepper (everything except the oil) in a bowl, blender, or food processor. Whisk or run the machine while you add the olive oil in a thin stream. The mustard and garlic will act as emulsifiers, helping to create a thick, smooth dressing. Add up to 1 Tbsp (15 ml) water for desired consistency. Keep it in a jar until you need it — just give it a good shake before using. (It will store, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.)

Trim off the dark green parts of the leaves above where they join the stalk. Cut the top of each stalk in half lengthwise down to where the white begins, open them up a bit, and rinse out any dirt from between the leaves. Cut the root ends off, then cut the white part of each leek into rounds about 1½ in (4 cm) long.

Warm the oil in a saucepan that’s large enough to hold all the leek pieces standing up like tree trunks. When it starts to shimmer, add the leeks and cook them over medium heat for about 5 minutes until the bottoms are nicely caramelized and golden brown. Flip each piece over and brown them again. When they’re browned, pour in the wine and sprinkle in the salt. Let that cook for a minute to boil off the alcohol, then cover the pan and lower the heat to a simmer for 5 minutes.

Remove the leeks to a serving dish, spoon the vinaigrette over them generously, and let them sit for 10 minutes or so to cool down and absorb the dressing. (You can marinate these in the fridge overnight and serve them the next day for an even more pickled flavor.) Garnish with the chives and hazelnuts and serve.