Watermelon Rind Thogayal

To prep the rind: cut the fruit from the white watermelon rind, leaving about 2 to 3 mm of the pink fruit on the rind (it adds a warm color and mild sweetness to the dish). Cut away the green peel, then roughly cut the rind into about 1-inch cubes for 2 cups or 400 g of watermelon rind. Set aside.

Heat 1 tablespoon of oil (reserve the rest for the tempering; step 2) in a kadhai or a thick-bottomed pan and cook the urad dal and 1 dried red chile for 30 seconds. Add the ginger and sauté for 30 seconds, then add the asafetida, quickly followed by the watermelon rind, tamarind, and salt. Mix well, cover and cook on medium-low heat for 3 to 4 minutes until the rinds soften, just short of mushy. Stir in the grated coconut, cook for 2 minutes, and turn off the heat. Allow the mix to cool.

Blitz the watermelon rind mixture in a blender, using as little water as possible, to a grainy, hummus-like consistency. Pour into a serving bowl. Check and adjust seasoning, if needed.

In a tempering ladle or a small pan, heat the rest of the oil and add the mustard seeds and a dried red chile. As soon as the mustard seeds begin to pop and crackle, turn the heat down to low, add the curry leaves, and sizzle for 30 seconds. Tip the entire contents of the pan over the thogayal. Or skip the tempering, drizzle virgin olive oil, and serve this thogayal as part of a mezze platter. This can be made hours ahead and kept cool until serving time.