Sweet Potatoes & Fennel Gravy

Poke the sweet potatoes a few times with a fork to create holes for steam to escape. Put them on a baking sheet and bake until they’re very soft, 45 to 55 minutes. Let them cool until you can easily handle them, then halve them and scoop the flesh out into a bowl. Add the yogurt and salt and use a microplane to grate in about 1/4 tsp of nutmeg. Use an immersion blender to make a smooth purée. Taste for salt and adjust, if necessary, then set aside.

Juice the fennel; you should have at least 1 cup of juice. (Letting a few fronds run through the juicer will yield a greener juice.) Melt the butter in a skillet over medium heat and let it just begin to brown, 3 minutes. At that point, add the flour and stir it well to combine with the butter. Let the roux cook gently, stirring, until the mixture turns a fragrant, nutty light brown, 1 minute. At that point, add the fennel seed and juice and whisk them into the roux, adding the salt as you whisk. Bring it to a simmer and cook until it thickens, about 2 minutes, whisking occasionally. Pour the gravy into a serving bowl or pitcher.

Warm the sweet potato purée, if necessary, then spoon a mound of them on each plate and make a little crater in the top, like a volcano. (Whistle the theme from Close Encounters while you do it for maximum enjoyment.) Fill the crater with gravy, sprinkle on some chopped fennel fronds, and serve.